Cooke Road Train Crew, Columbus, Ohio Model Railroading and Railfanning





hiding snap switches

boxcar weathering

engine weathering








So, your using the 1-1/2 inch foam siding for the base of you layout?? Me too, and after getting into it I ran into one major problem:

I use 1/2 inch plywood (top of bench work) then put 1-1/2 inch pink or blue foam siding. That equals to be 2 inches. The rod on under the table switches is only an inch tall (out of the box). You can put a rod of sorts on the end if you can find a great way to do it and get consistent results out of it. This was done in several ways in my experiments to find out if I should buy a bunch of under table switches and replace the table top ones I had on my layout. After a day of frustration and nothing good and consistent to show for it. I threw in the towel and took the under the table switch back to the store.

It donned on me about a week later when I was sculpting rock formations. "Hey you can carve this stuff really well, and pretty accurately with a fresh xacto blade". No, I didn't bury the switch machines in the foam, close but no. They are in fact still on the table top just covered up. Yes they still work, they work great actually better than they did before covering them and you won't have rolling stock or locos hitting them afterwards.

BILL OF MATERIALS:
  • Switch, wired and working (Atlas Snap-switch is used)
  • Felt-tip black ink pen
  • Xacto knife (Hobby knife)
  • Fresh blades for your hobby knife
  • 2 finishing nails
  • 3M Double-faced tape with a plastic peel-off backing(usually white peel-off backing)
  • Elmer's Glue
  • Scenery material of you choice

HAPPY MODELING!!
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